Re: Why Is There Such Significant Difference

Betreff: Re: Why Is There Such Significant Difference

Datum: 2006-07-23 19:35:57
Absender:  BLVDDAD@aol.com

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Dear Ray,

The alcohol levels reported on German wines can be off by more than a
percent when tested against reference-level methods. The highly inaccurate method
allowed for alcohol determination for the purposes of labeling is one reason,
and legal 'slop factors' are another. So this difference may be small or
entirely illusory. But let's assume it isn't.


First let's note that alcohol levels are readily controllable in German
wines, of course, by several means, and so are a part of the style of the wine
that is in the hands of the vintner.


Ideally in a cold-country vineyard, the style of the wine changes somewhat
every year to accommodate the very different conditions that can occur every
year. 2002 was a very classic year, with usual ripeness levels. 2003 was a
drought vintage, with plenty of what the French call 'passerilage', or
shriveling/raisining of the grapes, increasing potential alcohol and extract
considerably. In order to make a balanced wine, higher alcohols are desirable.
This keeps the sweetness of the wine in bounds, and matches it with a
'mouthfeel' that is appropriate to the sweetness and extract that is there. Alcohol
does not add much taste as such to the wine but it increases the sense of weight
or body that the wine has in the mouth.

It would be interesting to ask one of the Hasselbachs or someone on their
winemaking team the thinking that went into this decision. Some winemakers,
such as Helmut Dönnhoff, pay plenty of attention to getting just the right
balance in the wines. I'm sure that Gunderloch does this as well.

Even so, this is a somewhat extreme example. However, note that we're
comparing apples to oranges here. Anyone know the labeled alcohol level on the
GKA for 2002?

Ausleses are not necessarily 'dessert' wines, but GKAs are most often
definitely dessert wines, for which more alcohol is appropriate, since they are
served with dishes with a high fat content.

Best, John Trombley

In a message dated 7/23/2006 3:50:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
raymd@singnet.com.sg writes:


- Gunderloch Auslese 2002: 7.5% alc.
- Gunderloch Auslese Goldcap 2003: 10.5% alc.
That's a drastic 3% difference - why?

Thanks
Ray


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